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Maine Fishing Regulations
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Advanced
Nymphing Quick Guide- Lesson 2 of 2
'Fly Fishing Tips and
Tricks' __________________________________________________
The
most important elements of nymphing, which we will
be covering in this article are as
follows:
1) Get
Close to the Feeding Trout
2) Tippet Choice
3) Casting Techniques
4) The
Presentation 5)
The Strike 6) Flies to
use
Get Close to
Feeding Trout
If you
are able to stay on the bank without wading at all, do it. Get as
close to the feeding trout as possible. Coupled with a pair of
polarized sunglasses, this will allow you to observe the trout and
see it take the fly. If you can't see the trout, you will still want
to be close enough to watch where the leader and water intersect.
If you are not fishing
with a strike indicator, use this intersection point as your strike
indicator.
If you are able to see the fish in the water,
try this the next time you are on the water. Mark the trout's
location in relation to a streamside landmark, move well back from
the bank, and then walk far enough upstream to remain undetected
when you move back toward the stream. Once you’re next to the water,
crouch and sneak down toward the fish as close as you dare.
...but before we get too
carried away, let's make sure you're properly equipped. What
tippet are you
using?
Tippet Choice
Depending on the water, 5X or 6X tippet is a common choice
when fishing small nymph flies. On occasions you may fish some
small nymphs which will have trouble breaking through the surface tension. If this
happens, lengthen the tippet to 3 feet or more. A longer tippet will not only help break
the surface tension, but it also gives the fly better action
under the surface. Of course, if getting your fishing flies down becomes a
problem, you can switch to fluorocarbon, which will break through
the surface tension and sink a little better.
...ok, now you are ready to cast your fly.
Casting
Techniques
Listed in order of preference, you want to aim
for the following casting angles: Option #1 -across-and-upstream,
#2 -across-stream, #3
-across-and-downstream, and finally #4
–downstream casting position.
Typically, the downstream
casting position is a last-resort for when all other options are
unavailable. It's not that you can't make an effective drag-free presentation
downstream, but your chances of spooking the trout increase dramatically while casting
your fly over the feeding zone.
In an ideal scenario, you would be making a
short upstream or across-and-upstream cast and then allowing your fly
to swing into the proper drift lane slightly upstream from the
trout. Once the fly has swung into position upstream of the trout,
feed out S curves the same as you would do on a downstream
presentation.
...let's continue
on talk about the
presentation of your fishing flies in
the water.
The
Presentation
The secret to successful nymph presentation is not often taught
to beginners. The trick is to make a cast short
enough to not spook the fish and then keep your tip up as you feed
out slack with S curves of line. It is crucial that you keep your rod tip high.
Keeping the tip up keeps slack line off the water and assists
with strike detection. It also suspends the fly just a bit as
it drifts, and that's what makes it act like the real
thing.
So what should the fly look like under the
water? As a
general rule of nymphing, a dead-drift presentation is the
best. However
occasionally you can implement a slight “lift” with your fly
presentation. To
perform a lift, s moothly and
slowly lift the tip of the rod either when you see the fly a few feet
in front of the trout or when you are entering into the optimum feeding
areas.
If a trout is responsive to lifts, you'll
see it respond immediately when you apply the action. Once again, it is only practical attempting
lifts with short casts.
...but remember, a
dead-drift is most consistently the best presentation to
entice the
strike
.
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The combination of a heavy beadhead fly and a more buoyant
nymph fly can be deadly. Dead-drifted, this rig puts the larger
fishing fly on the bottom, while the bottom fly imitates an insect
that has been knocked into the drift. If you twitch your rod
tip, you can make the bottom nymph dive and rise again, which
often triggers a
strike. |
The
Strike
Strike detection can
sometimes be illusive. If you hold the fly line between your
thumb and forefinger, it will help to feel the
strike. Watch the leader–fly line connection closely for jerks
or dips. If the leader stops, hesitates, or does
anything out of the ordinary, gently lift the rod.
If you feel a fish on, set
the hook; if you don't feel a fish, lower the tip and continue the
drift of your
fly.
Flies to Use
This is where we can help you out.
Having the right nymphs in your arsonal is crutial to sub-surface success. After all, this is
what the fish are going to be seeing and feeding
on.
The standard brass beadhead
nymphs are great for mid-range sink
rates. Try a soft hackle nymph fly, they work exceptionally well when fishing
it in combination with a multi-fly, tandem-rig.
Non-weighted
nymphs
typically work exceptionally
well in slower moving columns of water. However when it
comes to fast moving water or deeper pools, flies tied with
tungsten
beadheads
are ideal for getting the fly
down into the feeding channel quicker and keep it there longer per
cast. Both
weighted stoneflies
and non-weighted
stoneflies are
very productive during certain times of the year. If you find that the trout are sensitive to the
flashy metallic bead on the stonefly but you still want the weight,
switch to a fly where the weight is hidden under the
dubbing. Just ask us to tie them for you with a "weighted
underbelly".
Quick Links
to Nymph flies:
Nymphs,
Beadhead Nymphs, Tungsten NymphHeads,
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